The Queen of The Bias Cut – Madeleine Vionnet
The story of the “Queen of the bias cut”, Madeleine Vionnet and her fashion house.
Madeleine Vionnet was a one of a kind fashion designer. Not only was she very inspired almost only by one certain country (Greece), she was also someone who invented whole new techniques for dress making, which is why her legacy, and her nickname; the Queen of the bias cut, still lives on today.
But Madeleine Vionnet did not have the best start in life. She was born into a poor family in Chilleurs-aux-Bois, France in 1876 and had to start working at a very young age. She was only 11 years old when she got her first job as an apprentice for a seamstress.
Madeleine Vionnet continued to work as a seamstress from then on, and when she was older, she did get two very prestigious jobs for the fashion houses Callot Souers and Jacques Doucet. This gave her enough experience to start her own fashion house, “Vionnet” in 1912. In the 1920’s she became famous all over the world, after having invented the very flattering bias cut method for cutting and constructing clothes. This is still her biggest legacy today.
Madeleine Vionnet was very fond of Grecian-style dresses, that worked very well with the new bias cut technique. They were loved by many people all over the world, including by Hollywood starlets Greta Garbo, Katherine Hepburn and Marlene Dietrich.
The fashion house of Vionnet was closed by Madeleine Vionnet herself in 1939, when WW2 was approaching. The fashion house was dead until 1988 when the Lummen family bought the right to use the name, several years after Madeleine Vionnet died in 1975.
The fashion house was re-opened in 1996 and the house started producing new ready-to-wear collections in 2006, under the lead of Sophia Kokosalaki. The first new Vionnet collection in 67 years was showed on the catwalks for Spring/Summer 2007 and was a huge success.
Today, the Vionnet brand is owned by the Italian Marzotto Group, and the head designer is Rodolfo Paglialunga, who previously worked for Prada.
About the author:
JoJoGal is a fashionista who lives, loves and obsesses about fashion every day, and blogs about fashion on her blog Things that make me go mmmm.