How to Makeup with Minerals

A flawless looking, glowing complexion can easily be achieved with mineral makeup but using the correct tools and techniques is essential. Many people who have never used minerals before as well as those who have never learned the proper application techniques struggle (and sometimes give up) with their mineral makeup because they just can’t get it to go on right.

This is a shame because mineral makeup is versatile, forgiving and very beautiful…all they need to do is learn to use the right tools and techniques to achieve the “glow” and flawless coverage that a good mineral makeup is famous for. To this end, I’ve written this article about my own mineral makeup application experiences to help everyone achieve the beautiful, natural look that mineral foundations can provide.

All mineral makeup products should be applied with the highest quality brushes that you can afford (no cheap $5.00 drugstore stuff here). The basic brush used for flawless application of mineral makeup is called a Kabuki brush. This is the most important brush in your mineral brush arsenal. An even application of minerals is impossible to obtain without the use of the kabuki (trust me, it’s true).

The type of material used to make the kabuki brush is also very important. Below, I have summarized the basic types of kabukis. Remember, the better quality kabuki brush you buy, the better the coverage and release of minerals, the better finish you will achieve. Your best foundation and setting powder brush choices are:

1 – 100% squirrel. If money is no object, this would be your first choice; especially if you use mineral cosmetics on a daily basis.

2 – The “soft” Kabuki. This is a great middle of the road choice. The quality is very close to the squirrel because it’s a blend of squirrel and sable. This combination creates a perfect soft blend, and if you have sensitive skin this brush is heavenly. It also provides even distribution of mineral makeup and ordinary powders.

3 – The Italian Badger kabuki brush. It almost guarantees even distribution of mineral makeup and ordinary powders. This brush is a favorite of makeup artists! Great for Sensitive skin and is extra dense and extra silky in texture. Used for applying mineral foundation, veil and bronzer. Italian Badger Kabukis are known for their supreme quality and lifetime use when cared for properly.

Other brushes/applicators you might want to invest in also are a Taklon (synthetic) large and small concealer brush and a natural bristle blush and big fluffy powder brush. I find the Taklon brushes very handy for applying my mineral concealers on large and small areas.

A flocked sponge is also a great addition. I use mine for building a bit more coverage in certain areas or for wet application.

I also use natural bristle (see above) shadow brushes for eye shadow application. For intense eye shadow color just use a flocked or sponge shadow applicator. You can get a whole bag of these at beauty supply stores for a few dollars.

A mini blush brush works very well for applying your lighter base shades over the whole eyelid. This technique also creates a smooth, dry base for your darker accent shadows so they’ll go on very evenly and lightly (remember; adding another layer is a lot easier than trying to fix a too heavy application!).

Be sure you tap the brush/applicator out lightly before you apply or you may end up with shadow speckles under your eyes (I speak from experience). VERY MESSY!

Now that you know the correct brush types for applying your loose mineral foundation; let’s talk about the correct method of application.

First you will want to lay a small piece of paper onto your counter before beginning. I just buy a few cheap little notepads (4×6) and each time I apply my minerals, I rip off a sheet and tap the chosen colors onto the paper! This makes cleanup fast plus if you tap a bit too much product onto the paper you can just use you brush and with the paper at the edge of the counter, brush the minerals back into the container; no waste!

It’s important to begin with a freshly cleansed and moisturized face. Allow any moisturizers, serums, etc. to completely absorb into the facial area before applying your mineral makeup.

To Apply Foundation

Tap or scoop a small amount of your loose mineral foundation powder onto the piece of paper and swirl the appropriate brush into it. Tap the handle (with the brush head facing up) of the loaded brush on a hard surface. This allows the powder to settle into the brush head.

Buff the foundation firmly (but gently) into the skin in a circular motion, starting on the outside of your face near your cheekbone. Buff around your face and then buff your forehead, cheeks, and nose. The more you buff the more glow you will get! But be gentle; you don’t want to tug at your skin!

Remember that applying mineral foundation is a layering process. Some people try to put too much on with the first application, causing problems getting a full, even coverage. Building layers will definitely yield the best results.

One of the great things about mineral makeup is that it won’t clog your pores nor will it have a cake-y or heavy feeling if the right formula for your skin type is properly applied. If it ever looks or feels cake-y or settles in fine lines and creases, this means you have applied too much product or used the wrong applicator/technique.

For problem areas, a separate concealer is not necessary. However, if you have severe skin discoloration, I find that using a mineral concealer, applied with a Taklon brush, under or over your mineral foundation and then dusting a mineral veil over all to blend gives exceptional coverage without heaviness!

If your skin is extremely dry, your mineral foundation can be blended with a natural cream or lotion to create a cream or lotion foundation. First, moisturize as usual and then scoop a small amount of powder into the palm of your hand or a small glass dish. Add a small amount of cream or lotion. Blend together until smooth and creamy. Use a flocked sponge to apply. Now you have two choices for applying your mineral foundation.

Powdered minerals and bacteria 

Even though mineral makeup is naturally resistant to bacterial growth, the addition of certain substances such as corn starch (which is an organic substance) and other additives can promote bacterial growth so never dip your applicators directly into the product; especially a wet applicator.

Instead, tap needed product onto paper (see above) or in the case of wet application, use a small plastic or glass container to tap product into. Your hand can also be used. It will be necessary to discard any unused product once it has been mixed with a liquid.

In closing, here are some tips on how to clean your brushes to extend there life and give you the best finish upon application. It’s extremely important to keep your brushes clean. Wash them at least once a week.

The easiest way that I’ve found to do this is by placing a bit of gentle anti bacterial liquid soap in your palm. Wet the brush in warm water and swish it around in your hand until it appears that all the color has been released from the brush.

Rinse well, allowing the water to flow through the bristles. Gently squeeze out as much excess water as you can (first with your fingers and then with a clean towel/paper towel) then vigorously swish across a clean towel. Reshape the brush with your hands and lay brush down flat on towel/paper towel allowing it to air dry (this can take several hours).

Note:

You should never place a freshly washed brush bristle side up in a container because this will allow any excess water to seep into the area where the bristles are attached and can loosen the bristles of your brush and completely ruin it!

Here’s to a beautiful you!